Richard (Rick) Grigg

Richard (Rick) Grigg pion­eered big-​​wave surf­ing on the North Shore of O’ahu, Hawaii, and was Pro­fessor of Ocean­o­graphy at the Uni­ver­sity of Hawaii.  He con­trib­uted to the second edi­tion of Surf Sci­ence: An Intro­duc­tion to Waves for Surf­ing.

Read more about Rick here and watch a video of him in action here.